Aluminum wiring Experts!



All you need to know
We know that there is nothing wrong with the standard #12 guage Aluminum conductor that was used. However, there was definately a problem with the workmanship that went into the method of termination and materials used in a lot of circuits. These faulty practises are exactly what contributes to loose contacts, leading to the problems homeowners expierence today and unfortunately these practises are still commonly used in the industry today.
Crash Course
As we said, poor workmanship leads to 'loose connections' which leads to minor overheating and arcing causing the circuit to become disconnected exactly at the point of contact. This appliles to any type of Alloy. Aluminum or Copper.
Once a Non-Electrician understands how a home is wired, it's easier to understand how parts of these circuits become disconnected. Electricians wire homes using receptacles and switch boxes as junctions or connections, to supply power and extend the circuit and so forth. Each circuit may be wired with so many receptacles and lights depending on the amount of current, or "load demand" (load being a term used for amount of electricity or 'current' flowing). Think of all these boxes and devices (receptacles, switches, dimmers, lights, fixtures etc.) as "links of a chain".
If a chain is used to pull a heavy load and there is a weak link it will break at that point. In an electrical circuit, the same factors apply and will determine if and where the circuit becomes disconnected. The amount of load will really be the deciding factor in whether or not the circuit holds or fails. If there is not much demand for load on a particular circuit, such as a couple of amps, (clock radio,computer, etc.) many weak connections on this light draw circuit will hold and go unnoticed for a long time. Weak connections can handle a couple of Amps. As opposed to a circuit with a Fridge or any appliance trying to pull a heavier load closer to the 15Amps Max. rating of the circuit.
So what happens?
Usually the home occupant will notice a 'Flickering' of lights or intermitent power failures to the branch of outlets and lights "Down Stream" of the weak connection. If there is still a heavy drawing appliance plugged in or light switches turned on, there will be "Arching" at the loose connection. A small blue spark that will heat up the insulation on the wire connected to the device - causing a browning effect and hardening of the plastic insulation. (thus making the repair a little 'trickier').



Here's what to look for
An original duplex receptacle with a Flat Face and no side screw terminals, for the connection wire. These terrible devices are the worst ones and were only manufactured with a quick 'insert' method of connection. You simply strip the wire, stick it in a hole and hope it is tight. You will never know because YOU CAN'T SEE THE CONNECTION.
Unfortunately todays devices, still come with the 'quick insert option' (for the lazy people) and is almost guaranteed to fail. Remember: based on the amount of load running through that part of the circuit.
In our opinion, manufacturing of these devices, should no longer be manufactured with the insert option. This applies to any device! Whether it's made for 'Aluminum or Copper'. (lol, That's another story)
Here is an example of the duplex receptacle without terminals
*notice it has a Flat Face (new receptacles are more contoured)
Here is an example of a badly burned copper wired receptacle using the same 'insert techniques!
What can we do about it
We recommend having us go through all the connections and perform a 'retermination'
of all your box devides (wall receptacles and switches) throughout your home using
whats also known as "copper pigtailing" . See this illustration below. Notice that the new in and
out connections no longer rely on the device itself to feed the circuit. This process involves
using #14 copper extensions, ACS wire connectors, and new Copper rated devices. If this
upgraded procedure is completed by us, we guarantee you will never have any issues with the
internal Aluminum wiring itself. This upgrade process will also satisfy insurance companies,
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Look! "Push in Only" No terminals!
Here is the COLAR (rated for Aluminum or Copper). The terminals are Aluminum Plated.